If so, then look to see if fuel is the problem by removing the cap on the Schrader valve on the fuel rail on top of the injectors. Check to see if the fuse to the fuel pump is good. If the pump cannot be heard, then replace the cap and lift the hood. Have the helper turn on the key for 3 seconds and off for 5 seconds and on again a couple of times. The computer shuts the power off to the pump if it does not see a signal from the crankshaft sensor. The pump runs for only 2 seconds at a time when the engine is not running. Starting from the basics, take off the fuel cap and listen closely for the fuel pump to come on as a helper turns on the ignition key. Once you’ve gone through solutions 1-3, you may need to consider replacing the entire unit if the noise persists.If you feel that the fuel pump has failed, then this is the proper way of diagnosing the problem before replacing an item that may not be needed. Solution #4: Perhaps your alternator has seen better days and is on the verge of failure. Solution #3: Make sure the alternator is mounted securely so there is not excess movement. Solution #2: Check for bent pulley flanges that may cause the belt to run out of alignment. Improperly aligned alternator belts will often make a whining sound. Replace or tighten as necessary, making sure the belt is properly aligned on the pulley. Solution #1: Check the alternator belt for wear or looseness. Solution #3: If the alternator is supplying proper voltage, chances are the problem lies with your battery. If voltage is around 13.5-15, turn your attention to your battery. If voltage is below 13.5, there’s a good chance the alternator is not keeping up with your battery’s charging needs and will need replaced. Solution #2: Turn on your vehicle and use a voltmeter to test your battery’s charge. First, examine the wiring for damage or wear and replace as necessary. If everything looks good, move on to solution #2. Solution #1: Since the alternator is responsible for supplying the auxiliary power to your lights and electrical components, start with the alternator and associated items. … Problem: Dim lights or lights that seem to fade as the car runs. This can be caused by a short or ground in the rotor field winding within the alternator or a defective regulator. Solution: This is usually caused by an overcharged battery, which is typically the result of high alternator voltage. … Problem: Lights flare excessively as engine speed increases. Use the tests above to determine the problem-battery or alternator. Solution: Slow or labored cranking is often the first sign of an undercharged battery. Problem: Engine cranks over slowly and lights dim excessively during process. Monday Mailbag: Tracking Down Potential Charging System Issues Replace or tighten the cables as necessary.Īsk Away: with Jeff Smith: When and How to Update the Charging System in a Classic Car Solution #3: Check the alternator cables for abnormal wear, including cracking and fraying. If voltage is below 13.5, there’s a good chance the alternator is not keeping up with your battery’s charging needs. The voltmeter should read around 12.6 volts with the engine off and 14-15 volts when the engine is running. Get a good-quality voltmeter or multimeter and test your battery’s state of charge.If the alternator is bad, your car or truck will eventually die out again as the battery is not re-charged. If your vehicle is already dead, jumpstart the battery and wait.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |